If you are cutting baseboard for an inside corner, put your pieces up together and see how well they fit (Image 1). Nonetheless, it would help if you were careful. When you make the miter cut, leave the baseboard a couple of inches too long. Note: You can cut it to final length after the coping is done. Installing the coping saw blade with perfection might not be a herculean task. With a coping saw, cut along the profile. Using a coping saw, cut out the miter at a back angle to create a negative cut (Image 2). Your saw has to be adjusted so it cuts perfectly square in the vertical direction. It takes a bit of practice to master the trick, but once you do, you’ll be able to achieve a perfect cope in less than 60 seconds and never grab for the coping saw again. Note: Some pros even nibble away at curved profiles with a miter saw. Angling the blade will create a point ensuring the baseboard face fits tightly against the adjacent piece. If it is not a tight fit, you may want to cope the baseboard. Turn the molding upside down, set your saw at least 5 degrees to the right and cut straight down until you hit the curvy part. While you install the blade in the metal frame, place it firmly on a robust surface so that the blade and structure don’t spring away. If you have a low fence on your miter saw, add a 1×4 (photo 1) to fully support the baseboard. Slightly angle the blade so as to cut away more from the backside of the baseboard. Cope Baseboard. At first, attach the blade tightly with the far end spigot of the frame. Step 4: Sand for a Tight Fit The cut piece should fit perfectly around the non-cut piece. There will be wood shrapnel and your saw will be running for long … The 45-degree cut will provide a perfect profile to guide your …