You may need to download version 2.0 now from the Chrome Web Store. It’s all about rolling poly on the big areas, using wipe on poly on the small ones, and above all, controlling dust. For the final coat, I vacuum the work area again and let the dust settle overnight. Work over the whole area evenly and slowly in a grid pattern. Not to hard to remove the polyurethane, you just want to remove the bumps. This is normal. After 40 plus years of finishing doors, woodwork, furniture etc I can tell you what I use and it's easy and comes out baby butt smooth. And as an added alternative to some furniture and cabinet projects, lacquer is a great choice in that regard. This is just great. You can buy aerosol cans of polyurethane in satin, semigloss and gloss finishes. When you are done sanding wipe off all water. I did a bunch of furniture finishing for the bedroom recently. Following these pointers... read more. Let the Final Coat Dry in a Dust-Free Area. I’ve sanded a lot of decks and done all kinds of woodworking with it, but it actually is a superb auto polishing tool, as well, if you have the right kind of pad. Your IP: 195.62.95.10 After you have done your prep work on light sanding your piece, and applying how ever many coats of stain that you wish, I usually stain with flour sack towels, cheap and lint free. First spraying left to right then top to bottom, 3 light coats 10-15 mins between sprays. Wipe off any excess stain. These are a lot less than they used to be, same with down here. Some woodworkers like to use spray poly for a thin topcoat over base coats of conventional polyurethane, producing a final smooth coat without brush strokes. Although buffing makes any type of urethane look and feel like glass, might as well use a formulations that’s as easy as possible to succeed with. (You can use a natural bristle brush with oil-based poly, but keep an eye out for loose brush hairs.) Watch the video and read the article below and you’ll be amazed by what you can accomplish. 03:00 Well, I think that things are happening here. As long as the surface feel perfectly smooth, it’s time to move on to the next step. Hello everyone. How to Paint Furniture: Farmhouse Style Chair, Paint Pizzazz: Decorative Painting Techniques, Techniques for Painting Windows That Will Save You Time and Energy, We are no longer supporting IE (Internet Explorer), How to Clean Grout in Your Kitchen with a Surprising (and Cheap) Ingredient, Do Not Sell My Personal Information – CA Residents. automotive paste wax, working Been frustrated by poor-quality cuts using your portable power tools? It gives me great results, quickly and painlessly. How should I proceed? If you can't get a smooth finish due to dust, then you can do a whole process of rubbing it out with finer and finer abrasives, switching from wet sanding with silicone carbide paper, to … That’s not to say you should apply each coat thickly. Before you apply your 2nd coat of poly take hair dryer again and blow off your piece for any minuscule stuff you may see. It must be completely dry) then I take a sanding block usually about 4" and put 2000 grit. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/rubbing-out-a-high-gloss-finish/. Simple and cheap. Cloudflare Ray ID: 5f86bc680845fd05 This is standard practice with any wood finishing job, and is nothing out of the ordinary. If it’s cool in the bathroom, I use an electric space heater to speed up the drying. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. You’re not trying to remove significant amounts of polyurethane, just to knock off those little high spots. After the finish is on, I immediately roll small workpieces into my shop bathroom, which is nearly dust free. After the third coat, sand with 320-grit, then 400-, and finally 600-grit sandpaper. 03:27 So, I’m gonna continue buffing and just see how good I can get that. • • Switch on the power. So, the sander causes the rubbing pad to move and polishes the surface. When I do this, even when I sand very lightly, like one low pressure pass with 400 or 600 or even 1000, the texture comes out nice and smooth but the polyurethane is always scuffed with little white marks. It sounds too good to be true, but it is true. The problem at this stage is that your surface is probably going to have little bumps on it from dust particles that have settled out from the air. A: I’d definitely start by coloring the minor scratches with Polyshades as you planned. Move to a low-dust setting: somewhere without lots of foot traffic and with dust-free surfaces. INSTALLING TRIM: Five Tips for Great Results (Plus Two Videos! Lord, how I’d wish I’d known of buffing years ago. Buffing really does make it easy to get superb results on wood finished with polyurethane. After stain is applied I do a close look. (Skip the stain if you intend to leave your workpiece natural-color.) Quick Tip! It’s sometimes a lot easier to build a good project until you get to the finishing part, and that’s where disappointment often sets in. A place where people can come to learn and share their experiences of doing, building and fixing things on their own. I sand with 320 between coats. Complete DIY projects like a pro! There’s no need for painting. This is a skip-the-brush system. A clean work area is key. There are a couple of spots, maybe I’ll go at that a little bit more. Thinning the polyurethane makes it flow on more smoothly and reduces brush marks. This is standard practice with any wood finishing job, and is nothing out of the ordinary. If it’s a big project, I make a drying booth out of 6-mil poly sheeting first, which nearly eliminates dust specks. Apply only one thin coat. However, it dries too fast for all the little laps and strokes to flow and level themselves on a top large enough for dining. Be careful not to round over the edges of the table with the sandpaper. To be honest I was a little sloppy trying to finish in a hurry. It comes in different abrasive ratings, and the superfine type is what you need (it’s usually white in colour). To reveal flaws (bubbles, brush marks, etc.) More than 800,000 people have given this content a 95% approval rating. Use the 320-grit paper on a foam block to knock off the dust bumps, the go at it with a “fine” 3M rubbing pad. Before my "final coat", even if my previous coat was perfect, I sand with 400-600 and 0000 steel wool to make it silky smooth before that last coat. It just feels like a piece of glass, and it didn’t start off that way. I like the high gloss piano finish type shine. 04:36 While I’m at it, I also polished this headlight lens using the same rubbing compound. Now this sample here has four coats of water-based urethane, and the first step involves knocking off the dust bumps. 03:51 Well, I’m very pleased with what’s happened here. It’s got a little water on it, but it is definitely cloudier. And finally to get the ultra shiny effect, I break out the car polisher and use a Mother's polish the next day to buff out the haziness of the sanding. I think it’ll be just fine. Spray on this coat using an aerosol polyurethane and let it cure overnight, photo below. After each coat, re-dip the roller in mineral spirits and put it into a zippered plastic bag for the next coat and leave the wet tray to dry. as you work, shine a light at a low angle across the surface. Brush on three thin coats with a foam brush. The more you use it, the shinier things get. Before you do anything else on an actual project, read and understand all the steps below. Further refining the surface is what happens next, and that’s where something like this comes in. It all comes down to the right kind of abrasion. Yes 2000 grit not 200 grit sandpaper in it and get a bowl of water. There may be some brush marks too, and these are the things that would make the finish ugly. These are the things that I’m going to show you how to remove after the fact. There’s a finer grade than this, but I find that this works pretty well for most things. Sand the workpiece to 220 grit. For the final coat, I cheat a little and use the same brand spray on urethane for even coverage. There seems to be a lot of controversy on a rough first coat of polyurethane and what to do about it. A glass-smooth finish begins with a level, even surface. Click here for details of the best urethane I’ve used from the options available now (August 2019). After it is completely dry usually overnight, depending on humidy, (and don't rush this step. Completing the CAPTCHA proves you are a human and gives you temporary access to the web property. There seems to be a lot of controversy on a rough first coat of polyurethane and what to do about it. So, can I buff as you described, minus the 320 grit on the foam block? I have a 6″ orbital polisher to work with. Another way to prevent getting this page in the future is to use Privacy Pass. If it feels smooth to the touch, should it still be wet sanded with 600 or 800 grit, or can it be left as is?.. I sanded it with 220 grit and used a spray poly. Press J to jump to the feed. Don’t miss the article below, too. A 6-in. Sand lightly with 240-grit sandpaper between coats, then let the last coat dry for at least 24 hours.